Horseshoe Panel with Twists Square for Cabled Afghan Knit Along

Welcome to the Cabled Afghan Knit-Along! Each week we share a new square pattern and help you learn to make it. Watch videos on Creativebug (sign up for a free account to get access to the videos) and see tutorials here on the blog.

This week we will be working on the Horseshoe Panel with Twists Square (LW4309-F). You can download the pattern for this square here.

This square is back to the panels of cables and panels of Reverse Stockinette stitch that we used in the first few squares. There are several different cable sections different distances from each other, so you may find it helpful to use stitch markers to keep track of where you are. Once you’re comfortable with the pattern, you can stop using the stitch markers.

Using a long-tail cast-on, cast on 48 stitches onto your needle.

To do a long-tail cast on, start a few feet in from the end of your yarn.

LW4309-F long tail for CO

Hold the tail of the yarn over your left forefinger and the working yarn over your left thumb. Hold with your fingers as in the picture so you have control of the yarn.

LW4309-F long tail LH yarn position

With your needle press down between your fingers to create a loop around your thumb.

LW4309-F long tail loop around thumb

Move the needle up through the loop around your thumb…

LW4309-F long tail come thru loop on thumb

…around the strand over your forefinger, and back through the loop on your thumb.

LW4309-F long tail back through thumb loop

Drop the loop from your thumb and tighten up close to the needle.

LW4309-F long tail finished

When you’re finished with a long tail cast-on, the smooth side of the cast-hand stitches are on the right-hand needle. When you switch hands so the left-hand needle has the stitches, the bumpy side of the cast-on is on the main side of the needle. You’ll begin Row 1 as a wrong side row so the cast-on and the first row match.

Following the pattern for Row 1, start with a knit 4. Mark the first place for a cable by placing a stitch marker, purl 2, then place another stitch marker. Then knit 4 in between the cables, and repeat stitch marker, purl 2, stitch marker, knit 4.

Now you’ve reached the section where the the big Horseshoe Cable will go, so place another stitch marker, purl 16, then place another stitch marker. The end of the row is like the beginning, so knit 4, place marker, purl 2, place marker, knit 4, place marker, purl 2, place marker, and then knit 4 to the end of the row.

At the end of the row you can see the stitch markers marking the places for the Reverse Stockinette, twists, and Horseshoe Cable. Each stitch marker marks a transition between a Reverse Stockinette section and a cable section.

LW4309-F  square E chart

Every right side row has multiple cable twists, while every wrong side row is just knitting the knits and purling the purls.

Start Row 2 with purl 4 to make the Reverse Stockinette stitch. The first cable is a 1 over 1 Right Cross (1/1 RC).

To work the 1/1 RC, slip 1 stitch on to your cable needle and hold it in back. Knit the next stitch on the left-hand needle, then knit the stitch from the cable needle. It’s the same idea as the 2 over 2 Right Cross (2/2 RC) that you’re familiar with, but with one stitch in each section instead of 2.

After the cable, slip the marker and purl 4, then do another 1/1 RC. Purl 4 and you’ll be at the Horseshoe Cable section.

The first row of the Horseshoe Cable is knit 4, then a 2/2 RC. Immediately after the 2/2 RC there is a 2 over 2 Left Cross (2/2 LC). Knit 4 to complete the Horseshoe Cable.

Edie explains how to use this U-shaped kind of cable needle: If you always slip the stitches on the short side and knit the stitches from the long end, you will never twist the stitches.

LW4309-F how to use cn 1

 

LW4309-F how to use cn 2

At the marker purl 4 for Reverse Stockinette stitch. At the next marker, work a 1 over 1 Left Cross (1/1 LC).

To work the 1/1 LC, slip 1 stitch on to your cable needle and hold it in front. Knit the next stitch on the left-hand needle, then knit the stitch from the cable needle.

Complete the row by working a purl 4, a second 1/1 LC, then a final purl 4.

Row 3 is a wrong side row, so knit the knits and purl the purls to keep the sections of cable and Reverse Stockinette stitch in pattern. Use the markers for an easy way to tell when you should be knitting and when you should be purling.

Row 4 is another right side row. The 1/1 RC and 1/1 LC are in the same places, but the 2/2 RC and 2/2 LC in the Horseshoe Cable are in different places. Before we get there, let’s learn how to work a 1/1 RC without a cable needle.

To knit the 1/1 RC without a cable needle, start by skipping the first stitch and knitting into the second stitch. Make sure you don’t knit 2 together knit or knit through the middle — you want the tip of the needle to come out in front of the other stitch.

LW4309-F 1-1 RC k into 2nd st

Knit into the second stitch but do not drop it off of the needle. Then knit into the first stitch and drop both stitches off of the needle. You have made a 1/1 RC without a cable needle!

LW4309-F 1-1 RC complete

Purl 4, do a second 1/1 RC, then purl 4 over to the Horseshoe Cable section.

This time we’re moving the cable crosses away from the middle of the Horseshoe Cable section. Knit 2 then 2/2 RC to move the location of the 2/2 RC from where it was in the previous right side row. Then knit 2, and do a 2/2 LC and then knit 2 to complete the horseshoe cable. If you look at the chart or at your knittting, you’ll see that the crosses are offset from each other in this cable section. Moving the cable crosses gives the horseshoe cable its unique look.

Then purl 4 for the Reverse Stockinette stitch, then do a 1/1 LC without a cable.

To knit the 1/1 LC without a cable needle, bring the right needle behind the left needle. Put the tip of the right needle between the first and second stitch from the back, and then slip it into the second stitch from left to right.

LW4309-F 1-1 LC k into 2nd st

Knit the stitch but don’t let anything drop off of the left-hand needle. Knit into the first stitch as normal, then slip both stitches off of the left-hand needle. You’ve completed a 1/1 LC without a cable needle!

LW4309-F 1-1 LC complete

Purl 4 and do another 1/1 LC, then purl 4 to the end of the row.

Row 5 is a wrong side row, so repeat Row 3 and knit the knits and purl the purls.

Row 6 starts off the same as Rows 2 and 4 until you reach the Horseshoe Cable section. Now that you can see the pattern developing, you can remove the stitch markers as you come to them. Of course, if you find the stitch markers helpful, you can keep using them for the entire square.

For the final row of the Horseshoe Cable pattern, start the section with a 2/2 RC. Then knit 8 stitches, and do a 2/2 LC. You can see how the cable crosses in this section have moved from the middle of the section to the edges of the section. On the next right side row you will start the pattern over again, so that the cable crosses are again in the middle of the Horseshoe Cable section.

LW4309-F 1st 6 rows

After the Horseshoe Cable section, complete the row as you completed Rows 2 and 4.

You may not need to count rows on this pattern, since you are making cables on every right side row.

Repeat the 6 row repeat 9 more times, then work Rows 1-3 once. Bind off in pattern on the right side and you’re finished!

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Introduction
Bias Garter Stitch Square
Basic Cables Square
Snake Cables Square
Checkerboard Cables Square
Stockinette Cables Square
XO Panels and Ensign’s Braid Square
Honeycomb Trellis Square
Honeycomb and Braided Cables Square
Seed Stitch Diamonds Square
Lattice Cables Square
Putting It All Together

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9 thoughts on “Horseshoe Panel with Twists Square for Cabled Afghan Knit Along

  1. Gulnaz

    Hi, when u say, bind off on right side, do you mean the cast off line should be knitted as Row 4 of the pattern?

    • redheart

      Yes, the cast-off row should be knitting from the right side like Row 4. You do not need to do the cable twists present in Row 4 when you bind off.

  2. Morag Telfer

    I really learned a lot from this square. I struggled with the left twist but eventually was able to do the square without a cable needle. I discovered that if I put my right needle properly into the stitch I was going to pop and pick up then kept my right needle still while I worked with the left one popping and picking up, I was faster and didn’t ever lose stitches. Once I got the stitches in the correct order on the left needle, then I just knit them off. On this my fifth cable square I finally realized that the angle of the blank area between the lines and within the stitches allotted for the cross in the pattern was the same direction that the top part of the cross slanted when the stitch is finished. I also realized on this square that if I get the right direction for the left side stitches of the cross when making the cross, that the entire cross is done correctly. Thank you so much Edie.

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